History of Emperor Napoleon 1st' Authentic Eau de Cologne
at Saint Helena

This Eau de Cologne, manufactured at Saint Helena following a formula restored by the entourage of the Emperor, takes part in the legend, because it is the result of the food shortage which reigned at certain times on this island " prison " where was retained the captive Emperor.

The restrictions are stringent. Sadly, the Emperor has no Eau de Cologne left. The same Eau de Cologne he used in France and at the beginning of his stay at Saint Helena where he used to rub his entire body intensely after too long (according to his doctors) and too warm enjoyable baths. What could he do ? There is no Eau de Cologne on the island of Saint Helena. Its population is scarce and quite miserable. It would take too long to get to the island! So the Emperor calls upon the memory of his companions and refers to dictionaries which make up part of his library, to create an artisanal Eau de Cologne. Its formula will later be found in the papers of ALI (Louis Etienne Saint-Denis).

Longwood House This residence, located on the island of Saint Helena, will shelter the last years of the Emperor 's life.

ALI Ali and the companions in misfortune who accompanied the exiled Emperor

Second Manservant of the Emperor, of his true name Louis Étienne SAINT-DENIS, he is "Versaillais", born from a family of servants attached to the Castle of Versailles, having received a good education since he became clerk of notary in Paris. Thanks to his father, Maître of Horse-gears, who knew CAULAINCOURT, it enters the crews of the Emperor's house in 1806 and passes to the interior services like second Mameluke. At this time, one gives him this nickname of ALI whom had carried, before him, one of the Mamelukes of the Guard. " Hundred-days ". At Saint Helena, he does not leave any more the Emperor, he's untiring, devoted, discrete, intelligent and with MARCHAND, the First Manservant, become his friend. They were the two servants who softened the captivity while rendering to their Master all the possible services. Copyist, librarian, manservant, male nurse, intendant of the Emperor's goods of which he establishes the inventory and ensures the conservation and the guard, he was one of the fundamental figures of this small ridiculous court. When he returned from Saint Helena, he settled in Sens where he became an easy middle-class man. He wrote his memories in which he expressed an astonishing memory exactitude. Following the testimony of one of the Emperor's companion, PONS DE L'HÉRAULT, he is the one who checked the authenticity of the memories of each one, so much its visual memory remains extraordinary and exact.

History, Use, Composition and Manufacture of "Eaux de Cologne" at the time of the stay of Napoleon 1st' on the Island of Saint Helena


HISTORY OF THE EAU DE COLOGNE

In 1725, Jean-Paul Feminis, from Italian origin, decides to leave in Cologne to prepare and make the trade of its "Eau Admirable" or "Aqua de Regina" whose he tells to hold the receipt from a monk of Orient. But, since the XIVth century, this formula was already prepared at the convent of Santa Maria Novellia in Florence, and knew then a great success. But, it is established that Jean-Paul Feminis has well known a religious of this convent, Saint Marie Clementine. Jean-Marie Farina, its nephew, rejoins in Cologne to second him. They change the name of their "Eau" and call it henceforth "Aqua Coloniensis" or "Eau de Cologne" and distribute it all over the world. In 1760, the "Eau de Cologne" Jean-Marie Farina is introduced in France. The future NAPOLEON 1st' is born in 1769; at the same moment, Mrs DU BARRY introduces the "Eau de Cologne" Jean-Marie Farina as toilet perfume at the "Scented Court" of Louis XV (1769-1774). The success of the "Eau de Cologne" will amplify in years that followed.


USE OF THE "EAU DE COLOGNE" IN YEARS 1770-1820

It was used at this period so INTERNALLY than EXTERNALLY:

BY INGESTION: This formula, elaborated in a convent by virtue of its therapeutic properties, like the "Cordial of Melissa of Carmes", is active or supposed such against many diseases: nausea, vomiting, difficult digestion and dyspepsia; ulcer and gastric hyperacidity; hepatic insufficiencies; fever; rheumatisms; scurvy; spasms, colics and intestinal infections; even against intestinal parasites ... and impotence. Essential oils that compose it are effectively powerful recognized antiseptics.

BY ASPERSION AND FRICTION: For the scent of the body, of course, but also, by friction, as antiseptic, healing and anti-pruriginous remedy; as muscular stimulant and venous tonic; against insects bites and disagreeable effects of the perspiration. Equally, as antiseptic of respiratory tracts by inhalation of essential oils volatilized at the contact of the skin. The "Eau de Cologne" was then, much more than a simple perfume, the basic component of a personal pharmacy.


COMPOSITION OF THE "EAU DE COLOGNE"

"Eaux de Cologne" of this period are perfumes of luxury and good taste whose bouquet is fine and discreet.

They were constituted by a mix of aurantiaceae and labieae essential oils, flowered with infusions of Orange-blossoms or Jasmine ; the whole being dissolved in the "Spirit of Wine". The "Spirit of Wine", is simply ethylic alcohol.

Galenically, they are Alcoholates, that is to say a liquid obtained by distillation of alcohol on an aromatic substance or an alcohol loaded with volatile principles of an or several aromatic substances. A lot can be transformed into liquor by addition of sugar. It were very widespread and researched remedies.

For example the Alcoholate of Rosemary (compound of Cedar distillate, Turpentine and Rosemary) called "Eau of the queen of Hungary", because it had, told one, transformed a septuagenarian princess, paralytic and gouty in a seductive young girl who was asked in marriage by the king of Hungary. They are equally present in the composition of the "Vinegar of the Four Thieves".

PREPARATION OF THE "EAU DE COLOGNE"

The distillation is the fundamental galenical act for a such preparation.

For the "Spirit of Wine", Raymond Lulle, the "Illuminated Doctor", nickname logically not usurped so seekers have, all times, implied personally in their works, indicated in the XIII th century how to obtain the "Aqua Ardens": it suffices to put the wine in the bain-marie of an alembic and to collect the first fractions distiled. By re - distillation, this alcohol is rectified, so its degree is carried around 90°, necessary to well dissolve Essential Oils in sufficient quantity.

To obtain Essential Oils, dive a part of fresh plants in three parts of boiling water in the cucurbit of an alembic, then add promptly the head and the refrigerant, and distill until there is no longer Essential Oils. These remains above the aromatic water in the reaping receptacle and have to be removed with a pipette. Then mix the "Spirit of Wine" with Essential Oils in good proportions.

An artisanal manufacture of "Eau de Cologne" was therefore possible, according to this simple technique, at Longwood by Ali, such Robinson Crusoë recreating, with local resources and some saved objects, the conditions of his life in the world that he frequented before its wreck.